Via Ferrata del Monte Paterno: Have an unforgetable Climb Among the Tre Cime.

Right in the heart of the Sexten Dolomites in South Tyrol, Italy, the Via Ferrata del Monte Paterno (Paternkofel) is a combination of alpine beauty, thrilling via ferrata elements, and World War I history. Located near the iconic Tre Cime di Lavaredo, this via ferrata is ideal for climbers seeking a rewarding but not too dificult experience, surrounded by some of the most breathtaking peaks in the Alps.

Though faifly short compared to some of the more intense routes in the Dolomites, the Monte Paterno route offers a complete alpine adventure. Tunnels and trenches from wartime, narrow ridges, panoramic views, and a satisfying summit. It is suitable for fit beginners and intermediate climbers, especially those looking to add historical depth to their via ferrata experience.

Overview of Via Ferrata del Monte Paterno

Location: Sexten Dolomites, South Tyrol (Alto Adige), Italy
Starting Point: Rifugio Auronzo or Rifugio Lavaredo
Summit Elevation: 2,744 meters (9,003 feet)
Estimated Time: 3 to 4 hours (round trip)
Difficulty: Moderate (B/C on the via ferrata grading scale)

The route is a mix of easy climbing, secure ledges, and short vertical sections, all complemented by a network of tunnels once used by soldiers during World War I. These historic passages, combined with the commanding views of the Tre Cime, make this via ferrata one of the most memorable in the region.

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Route Highlights

1. Historic Tunnels and War Relics

One of the best features of this via ferrata is the system of tunnels and galleries carved into the mountains by Italian troops during World War I. As you make your way through these dark, echoing corridors—headlamp required—you get a real sense of the hardships soldiers faced in these high alpine battlegrounds. The tunnels are still in good condition and add an atmospheric and sobering dimension to the climb.

2. Exposed Ridges and Panoramic Views

After exiting the tunnels, the route rises slowly along ledges and exposed ridgelines. While the via ferrata sections are not really difficult, the exposure is real and requires a steady head. The reward? One of the best views of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the Dolomites’ most iconic trio of peaks.

3. Summit of Monte Paterno

Reaching the summit of Monte Paterno is an exhilarating moment. At 2,744 meters, you’re treated to a 360-degree panorama that includes the Tre Cime, Monte Cristallo, and the Cadini di Misurina. A summit cross marks the top, and it’s an ideal spot for a break and photographs.

4. Descent and Return

The descent from the summit is via an alternative route, also partially equipped with cables. It circles back toward the start, allowing for a satisfying loop that returns you to Rifugio Lavaredo or Rifugio Auronzo. For those with energy to spare, this via ferrata pairs well with hikes or climbs to nearby peaks.

Equipment Checklist

Via Ferrata Set: Helmet, climbing harness, and shock-absorbing lanyards
Headlamp: Absolutely essential for the long, dark tunnels
Sturdy Footwear: Hiking or mountaineering boots with good grip
Gloves: Fingerless or light gloves help with cable gripping
Layered Clothing: The high-altitude environment can bring sudden changes in weather
Water and Snacks: No water sources on the route
Map and Compass or GPS App: Though the trail is well-marked, it’s good to have a backup

Safety and Conditions

1. Tunnel Navigation

The tunnels are a unique part of the experience but can be slippery, dark, and narrow. A reliable headlamp is crucial, and you’ll need to watch your footing as you make your way through the uneven paths.

2. Exposure and Fitness

While not overly technical, this via ferrata is exposed in places. Climbers should be comfortable with heights and have basic via ferrata experience. A decent level of fitness is necessary to handle the elevation gain and moderate climbing sections.

3. Weather Considerations

Like all mountain routes, weather can change rapidly. Avoid this route in storms or heavy rain, as the rock and tunnels become treacherous when wet. The best season is from late June to late September.

4. Crowds

Due to its accessibility and beauty, Via Ferrata del Monte Paterno is popular, especially in peak summer. Starting early in the morning not only avoids crowds but also minimizes risk of afternoon storms.

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Suggested Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Misurina or Auronzo di Cadore

Check into a mountain lodge or hotel
Visit Lago di Misurina or take a short hike for acclimatization

Day 2: Climb Via Ferrata del Monte Paterno

Early breakfast and drive to Rifugio Auronzo
Hike to start of via ferrata (approx. 1 hour)
Complete the via ferrata circuit (3–4 hours)
Return to Rifugio Auronzo for a celebratory drink or snack

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Nearby Alternatives and Add-ons

Via Ferrata Innerkofler–De Luca: Another historical via ferrata nearby, often combined with Monte Paterno.
Tre Cime Circuit Hike: A non-technical loop trail around the Tre Cime with amazing views.
Rifugio Locatelli (Dreizinnenhütte): A great place to stop for lunch or stay overnight; it also offers incredible photo opportunities of the Tre Cime.

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Why Choose Via Ferrata del Monte Paterno?

The Via Ferrata del Monte Paterno is a fantastic introduction to Dolomitic via ferratas. It combines history, natural beauty, and manageable technical challenge into a half-day adventure that leaves a deep impression. With its proximity to the Tre Cime and accessibility from popular towns like Cortina d’Ampezzo or Misurina, it’s an great choice for both first-time ferratists and experienced adventurers seeking something scenic and meaningful.

Whether you’re there for the history, the views, or the thrill, Monte Paterno delivers a rich and rewarding mountain experience.